The Fat Duck, known here at the Food Drama for the extremely representational food experience called Sound of the Sea (see photo), recently introduced a new level of experience into the dining process (source: SFGate). They offer diners holding reservations a chance to view an animated cartoon that is exclusive to reservation holders. The suggestion is to watch the animation a few times before dining and a few times after. Keep in mind that the Fat Duck books tables months in advance, and also that the reservation holder is only allowed 4 views (can you believe it?!).
Upon being seated at the restaurant the diner is given a bag of candy that is intended to conjure up the memory of the animation, which in turn conjures a memory of childhood. In a very similar gesture, the Sound of the Sea dish is served 'paired' with an ipod that plays soothing ocean noises.
There is something silly about this style of representational pairing. Ocean sound via an mp3 and ocean food via a diorama. Both of these representations are elementary illusions. Does this compare to dollar shrimp tacos on the beach in Mexico? It is like preferring the Sistine Chapel to the natural beauty of wilderness. These dishes and experiences involve a great amount of artifice, technical skill, and money, but they are not genuine. While it may be deceptive at times, taste is never an illusion.
I must be a Phenomenologist of Dinner: "to the foods themselves!"
Not to say that I wouldn't be wowed by having the above plate placed in front of me. I just would rather be all the way inside of my food experience, rather than negotiating simple but competing levels of meaning. Taste and experience can be connected in far more interesting and complex ways. Ways which need not be self-conscious about their creativity. Were a theatrical suspension of belief possible, the Food Drama could get down, but these experiences do not offer such a thing.
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